Vestpillaren direct

As seen on UKC ticklist ‘best multi-pitch E2s in Europe, or thereabouts’

Vestpillaran Direct n6, Presten 27^th June 2025

One of the main objectives for this trip, and boy did it deliver. First hand account in those endless 24hr summer Arctic days, in stunning sunny Northern Norway.

In our group of eight, as usual, everyone wanted to do the route on the same day – despite my protests earlier in the week. The teams had to be split evenly. Elisha and Freya had an extremely strong desire to climb together, that was not for turning. Otherwise, it was agreed I had to be split from Elisha, and that left a slightly complex navigation that resulted in a duo (Elisha & Freya) and two threes – Freddie, Beth and Scott; Patrick, Maddie and I.

Not exactly an alpine start. After the usual deliberation, we had (finally) decided on teams the day before. This being the best weather day for a couple.

We were last to leave the house, and per the generosity of Raymond of Switzerland, got the first hitch to the crag– the sight of Presten made Raymond ‘feel dizzy’.

We marched to the base to meet a Dane and a Norwegian climbing the first pitch, we ended up keeping pace with them for much of the day.

Rock paper scissors and Patrick got the first lead; we agreed to lead in blocks of two initially.

After the first pitch, I feel anxious with the teams following and Elisha’s impatience making for an uncomfortable belay stance at the top of p1, despite being telt by Patrick.

Maddie’s knuckles have had it, they are swollen and in a poor condition, very tender.

She takes a heavy decision, abs down and bails from the first pitch.

Knowing she had made the right decision, was a sad relief.

Now it was down to Patrick and I to lead the charge as a two.

He lead valiantly on the n6- pitches, which were at least E1.

I got p3, the first n6 pitch – solid ‘5c’ bulge pulling. The others found this more difficult, and Elisha got in a right fankle going out left.

P4 +5 were filler, p6 an n6- slab and thin crack was another impressive lead from Patrick before I racked up for p7 – the crux of the whole route, according to the Nordic fairies above us.

Thin, well protected 5c pulls drove me into a fine pitch of crack and dancing between crack systems, a brilliant pitch which led to an uncomfortable belay.

Patrick took the next lead, a brilliant laybacking pitch – sustained n5+/HVS

Pitch 9 was superb. Guidebook cover, awkward and unreal looking, the angle was crazy. Having seen the Nordic team ahead climb it swiftly, it was down to me and I was confident. Their laughter making me take the rack and set off more brashly and less seriously than I should have.

Straight into it and I was absolutely spanked by the corner. It was super sustained and gear fiddly to place. While well protected it felt exposed and committing as you walk your feet and hands up the awkward thin leaning crack. I got pumped. Very pumped.

After a fight, the corner was dispatched, and I carefully traversed over to the belay.

Patrick followed and after a valiant effort, peeled off unexpectedly mid-corner. Epic. It must have been even harder with the backpack!

Elisha charges the lead behind us and gives me some kudos at the belay as I feed out Pat’s rope. We have a good chat, and he had to try fairly hard to stay on the corner – epic to see and photograph from above! Looked like something out of a magazine and not a wall that I was climbing on. All the crux pitches onsight? Highs like this don’t come along often…

One uncomfortable and loose ‘VS pitch’ for Pat to dispatch then the final surprisingly sustained and exposed traverse to finish.

‘F**king gnarly bro!’ as I completed the final 4m of unprotected but well chalked slab traverse, with a crucial foot slot and foot which was helpfully ticked.

Nordic team well out of sight now and I changed into my trail shoes then belayed Pat across. ‘Is there good gear?’

‘Yeah loads…’

Pat leads us out the grassy and muddy gully and we top out. It’s about 8.20pm, the cloud starts to shroud, and we get one amazing glimpse of the view into Djupfjord before the clouds envelop the hilltop. How good. We hug.

Elisha and Freya join us and we all hug. The clag comes and goes as we pack up, snack and make our way towards the scramble descent.

As the clag flows away, it drops revealing the most amazing cloud inversion, seeing far to the tip of the island chain.

The scramble is much more exposed than we expect, and it takes us a while but relatively painless while down to the lake, and down to the start of the classic local hike signs.

Our first chance at a hitch is almost a success despite the guy in the truck completely pissing us off by stopping to tell us he has no room and no use for us ha!

A local and her very timid hairy dog save the day, and we have a nice chat on our way back to Henningsvaer. A few days later I find her Hinge profile, but she doesn’t take my bait sadly.

Maddie has prepared Fajitas the legend and we feast and drink cold cheap Norwegian (expensive for us) lagers. The others arrive some hour or two later and revel in the most exceptional day. A late bed, but a very satisfying one…